Eating Out

WHEN we visited the newly refurbished pub restaurant The Linnet, the paint or at least, the varnish was literally still wet.

It was the opening night, just four days after new proprietor/chef Jonathan Furby and his team had moved in, and the vase of fresh flowers was stuck to our table by the new coat of varnish applied just hours before.

But in spite of this clue to the frantic preparations which had been taking place over the weekend, the atmosphere in the pretty little pub restaurant was remarkably calm and relaxing a real tribute to the professionalism of the staff.

Colleagues had spoken of Jonathan Furby, formerly of The Pear Tree at Whitley, in glowing terms, so my appetite was whetted even before we arrived. Things boded well at the bar, where I was pleasantly surprised to be offered a choice of dry white wines by the glass, while Alan was impressed by the beer, saying few places keep a good pint of 6X, and the one here was the best he'd ever had.

The menu presented me with real problems, because I like to try something new when I dine out, and here, the combinations of ingredients were so innovative, none of the options could be eliminated on a tried-before basis.

I eventually opted for the duck pancakes starter, followed by pan-fried lemon sole fillets, while Alan, with his eye on the dessert menu, opted out of the starter, and chose the lamb shank in a red wine and tomato jeus for his main course.

We were called from the bar to our table in the candlelit dining room and immediately served fresh-baked crusty white and wholemeal olive bread, and a bowl of superb olives.

It was when my duck arrived, thanks to a bit of necessary rearrangement on the tiny table, that we discovered the vase was stuck. But no matter, the pancakes crisp batter parcels served on a cucumber salsa were delicious. The artistic drizzle of plum sauce was perfect and Alan began to regret skipping a starter.

There was a short wait for our main course, but we took the reassuringly real cooking noises coming from the kitchen as a sign that everything was being prepared fresh to order, and were happy to be patient.

My sole fillets were served with langoustine sauce and superb crab dumplings light, and full of flavour. Alan's lamb was meltingly tender, and he loved the sauce, though I tried it and found it rather rich. Both meals were served on enormous white plates, emphasising the colours of the food, and a dish of new potatoes, crisp carrots, mange tout and excellent caramelised swede completed the course.

We could barely do justice to the dessert menu, which includes milk chocolate and cointreau fondue with profiteroles and mixed fruit for two, and both opted for the modest lemon and lime creme brule, which had a welcome light, fruity flavour.

Our meal, with two rounds of wine and 6X, came to £37.35 for such fine, fresh food, and comfortable, relaxing surroundings, a real bargain.

Dawn Gorman