DAVID Cameron’s last supper at Number 10 was a curry. The Conservative chief, who stepped down in 2016 reeling from his referendum defeat, treated his staff to a meal from a south London curry house.

In the mid-1990s Tony Blair and his allies famously plotted New Labour’s takeover from the front room of swanky Islington restaurant Granita. But the ex-premier, thrust back into the political limelight by Brexit, claimed he was a fan of the altogether humbler chip supper.

At the height of the Tory leadership conference, Boris Johnson attracted scorn when he ordered two takeaways instead of taking part in Channel 4’s leadership debate. His government later suggested pasting anti-knife crime slogans on the back of fried chicken takeaway boxes.

If a dish could define our times, it could well be a fried chicken burger. Sloppy, full of spice and with enough crunch to loose a tooth.

And few in Swindon are doing the chicken burger quite as well as the Pick Up Point, a Korean-inspired pop-up newly opened in Old Town pub The Hop Inn.

When The Hop moved to premises formerly occupied by The Pig on the Hill the only thing missing was the food.

I spend too much of my time and, no doubt, too much of my salary in the pubs and bars of Old Town. The area is too-conveniently placed between the courts and my home.

One of the pleasures of The Hop used to be Timbers Pizza, whose bearded owner created the cheesy potato monster Tartiflette pizza – a dish from which my arteries are yet to recover.

When the new Hop opened without Timbers many of my drinking pals were devastated. The carbohydrate sponge of pizza was replaced with, well, nothing.

The story has a happy ending. Timbers moved into the Eternal Optimist, a trendy new bar on Devizes Road, and all was well with the world.

And in Timbers’ place, a new pop-up moved into The Hop.

When it opened, the Pick Up Point was described as a kind of Korean chicken wing joint.

Initially, I was sceptical. I’m an English rose of the most delicate stripe: pale skin, posh voice and an aversion to anything hotter than HP Sauce. The fiercest curry I can handle is a tikka masala – and even that gets me sweating.

But I gave Pick Up Point a go. Starting small, one Friday night I had a bowl of the fries (£3) with a side of crunchy coleslaw (£3). Both were stunning. The chips as thin as those from any American diner and the slaw loaded with veg and delicately covered with mayonnaise without being sloppy. Perfect accompaniment for a Friday night pint.

A couple of weeks later I tried the Pecker burger (£9), after asking for the least spicy offering on the menu. The chicken was delicious: the outer deep fried and crunchy, while the meat tenderly fell off the bone. It was tasty, but a little boring – much like your reviewer.

So, it was with a fair amount of trepidation that I nibbled the corner of my Honey Buffalo burger (£9.50) last week.

To be honest, I’d chosen it because it had “honey” in the name. It was only after I’d paid they said it was one of the hotter choices on the menu. Described on the board as fried chicken thigh, smoked honey buffalo sauce, crunchy slaw, herb ranch and house dill pickles, I still had no idea what it would be like.

It turned out to be a stunning burger. The blood-coloured sauce giving it the perfect amount of bite. The bun was soft and, although a friend complained about the amount of sauce spilling down his hand, I was less concerned – being a dab hand with a napkin.

It left me satisfied without being too full. Fast food is too often gassy. This, refreshingly, was not.

I wouldn’t want to eat it every night, but as a mid-week or Friday night calorific treat you couldn’t go wrong with Pick Up Point.