I HAVE always thought that the beauty of Sunday lunch, especially one you haven't had to cook yourself, is the chance to take your time, have good conversation and to feel relaxed.

Chef Leon Sheppard, who has returned to the Peppermill in Devizes, after a couple of years away, has brought Sunday lunches back with him to the restaurant in St Johns Street.

But the concept is a little different to before. Now the roasts are cooked at a low heat for 10 hours and, if you wish, you can choose two different meats to go with your Yorkshire puddings, roast potatoes and other veg for a price of £16.

The meat, potatoes and Yorkshires are then served on a sharing platter which makes for quite a dramatic affect. An additional nice touch was the excellent cauliflower cheese served golden brown in its own pot as well as the more usual mixed vegetables.

The restaurant was buzzing when we arrived so obviously the return of Sunday lunch was welcomed by more locals than just us.

We had a drink in the bar area at a table with high stools in the front window and were made to feel welcome and not rushed despite the full eating area. Alcohol free beer for me (it was still January) and a wide choice of gins for my husband got things off to a good start.

A friendly waitress explained the new roast concept and left us to peruse the menu and debate whether or not to have a starter.

On Sundays I usually prefer a main course/pudding option but wanted to check with the waitress what would be on offer later before making a final decision.

I was a little disappointed that no traditional sponges or tarts were on offer and so after much internal debate decided to go for a starter.

My daughter and I both went for the seafood cocktail which was a modern and refreshing take on the 70s classic of prawn, lettuce and marie rose sauce (£7) while my husband went for a carrot and sweet potato soup (£6).

I was delighted to hear that you could have two different meats with the main course as I didn't have to pick between the beef and the lamb and instead could have both.

My husband made the same decision while Francesca had double turkey. Her request for mashed potato rather than roast was unfortunately turned down. But with the kitchen so busy this was understandable.

We were shown to out table in the lower section of the restaurant, and this being Devizes, said our hellos to plenty of people on the way.

Judging by the clean plates and platters the new-style roast was going down well. All of the food was cooked to a high standard and the sharing element was good.

By the pudding stage I was full so just had a coffee but did try a spoonful of my daughter's chocolate fondant (£6.50) which was good and gooey and some of my husband's cheese selection. (£7).

He had a choice of having three different cheeses from a wide selection that were served with an equally good range of biscuits and grapes.

We all agreed that the return of Sunday lunches to the Peppermill was a reason to be happy and we will be back.