HAVING heard The Angel was back in business, we were keen to see what changes the new team had made – but we had to postpone our first visit after checking the website and learning that the kitchen was closed for a refit.

When we finally made it, we realised the traditional pub, now a pub/restaurant with rooms, had a completely new look.

Very metropolitan lilac signage outside is matched inside by a bright decor, with a mix of decorating styles: prints and paintings showing someone is very keen on horses and racing, with some rather modern lighting in the lower restaurant area, off the bar, which sends rays of quite bright light everywhere.

Personally I found this a bit distracting (perhaps it works better when it's darker outside) but it didn’t detract from the food.

The menu offers a mix of traditional-type dishes with a modern twist, such as ham and eggs with triple-cooked chips, with some more adventurous choices. Steak features quite prominently, with a choice of sauces, and the vegetarian dishes are clearly marked. Vegetables are served as side orders.

My husband nipped in first to snap up the warm scotch egg, with chilli jam (£6.50) for his starter, so I went for the pork terrine, which came with brioche and onion marmalade (£6.50).

He said the scotch egg was delicious, cooked with a crisp outer shell but with the egg at the centre still just runny.

I would have liked more than two small slices of brioche toast with the terrine, as there was plenty of it, and the rich meaty taste was a bit strong when eaten alone.

For mains he chose the homemade steak burger (£11.50), deciding not to add extra bacon or cheese, which came with a generous serving of thin fries and salad.

Served on a brioche bun, which he said made a good light change from a bap, it was cooked quite rare in the centre. He was happy with that, because the quality of the meat meant it was not greasy, but some people might prefer their burger brown all the way through – if that’s you, a word to the attentive staff would be all that would be needed.

My blue cheese linguine with spinach and walnuts, with salad (£9.95) might have looked a small dish when it was presented but turned out to be very filling.

The blue cheese element was just right for me, being not so strong as to be overpowering.

We both felt too full for dessert, so passed up on the puddings, all £6.50, or a variety of ice creams.

Our meal, with half a pint of Butcombe bitter and Ashton Press cider, came to £37.90.

The Angel Inn
Upton Scudamore, Warminster, BA12 0AG
01985 213225
www.theangelinn.co.uk
Parking: Yes
Disabled access: Yes, through front door – steps inside from car park

Times ratings:
Food 8/10
Choice 7/10
Decor 5/10
Customer service 8/10

Main meals: from £9.50 to £23

Trip Advisor rating: 4.

ALISON PHILLIPS