The origin of Mothering Sunday is somewhat debated, but one theory places it's origins in England in the sixteenth century when people returned to their "mother church," the place where they were baptized, for a service to be held on the fourth Sunday of Lent. This also meant they got to see their mum.

It was also meant as a day in which domestic servants could have a day off to visit their mothers. Often girls were permitted to bake a special cake, called a "Simnel Cake," to bring to their mother.

A Simnel cake is topped with a layer of marzipan and decorated with eleven marzipan balls, each representing one of the apostles (excluding Judas).

While the Shrewsbury version of a Simnel cake is the most popular, Devizes has it's own special version which is made in the shape of a star, with no crust.

Some families allowed the cake as a mid-Lent treat, others would save the cake to be eaten on Easter Sunday.

Simnel cakes are complicated to make (recipe below), and since it could be expected to last several weeks before being eaten it was a test of a girl's cooking skills.

Mothering Sunday has also been called "the Sunday of the Five Loaves," because Anglican, Roman Catholic, Western-Rite Orthodox and Old Catholic churches read the gospel story of the feeding of the five thousand.

Some historians believe Mother's Day originates even further back with ancient spring festivals dedicated to maternal goddesses. Greeks honored Rhea, wife of Cronus and mother of the gods and goddesses of Greek mythology. Ancient Romans had a spring festival dedicated to Cybele, also a mother goddess. Called Hilaria, this celebration lasted for three days and included parades, games and masquerades.

SIMNEL CAKE

Almond paste
400 g icing sugar, sifted
250 g ground almonds
1 large egg yolk, beaten lightly
3-4 tablespoons orange juice
5 drops almond essence

Cake
250 g plain flour
1 pinch salt
1 teaspoon nutmeg
1 teaspoon cinnamon
280 g currants
250 g sultanas
110 g mixed peel
160 g butter
160 g caster sugar
3 large eggs
200 ml milk, to mix

1. CHECK LIST: a sifter, nest of bowls, food processor or electric beater, spatula, wooden spoon, 24 cm round cake tin, baking paper, brown paper and twine, rolling pin, thin metal skewer.

2. STAGE 1.

3. To make your own almond paste you will need a food processor fitted with a steel blade. Don't be tempted to use store-bought almond paste because it contains lots of sugar and few almonds, it will turn to liquid under the grill.

4. Place icing sugar and almonds in food processor bowl. Process, slowly dripping in egg yolk, orange juice and almond essence. The mixture should form a pliable paste.

5. Set aside a small portion for balls with which to decorate the cake.

6. Roll out the remaining paste into 2 circles which are the approximate size of the tin. Set aside.

7. STAGE 2.

8. Preheat oven to 160C/320F.

9. Use a sturdy non-stick cake tub or line the buttered base with baking paper. As the baking period is long (1-1 1/2 hours), prevent the cake drying out by wrapping a double thickness of brown paper around the pan and securing it with twine.

10. Sift flour, salt and spices together, then stir in fruit and peel.

11. Cream butter and sugar thoroughly until light and creamy then beat in eggs one at a time, until the mixture is fluffy. (Reserve a drop of egg yolk for brushing over top layer of almond paste.).

12. Stir flour and fruit into creamed mixture (you may need to add a little milk to give the mixture a dropping consistency).

13. STAGE 3.

14. Place half the mixture into a greased and lined cake tin.

15. Place one pre-rolled round of almond paste over the top.

16. Cover with remaining cake mixture. Before baking the cake, give the pan of mixture a sharp tap on to a firm surface. This settles the mixture and prevents holes from forming in the cake.

17. Bake in the centre of the oven for 1-1 1/4 hours or until a thin metal skewer inserted in the centre of the cake comes out without a trace of stickiness.

18. Level the cake by placing a weighted plate on top of the cooked cake while it is still hot.

19. Turn out cake on to a wire rack after leaving it to settle in the cake tin for between 10 and 15 minutes. Peel off paper and leave to cool completely.

20. STAGE 4.

21. Cover the top of the cake with a second round of almond paste. Roll 11 small balls of paste and place evenly around the top of the cake. Brush the top with a little beaten egg and very lightly brown under the grill until the almond paste turns light golden brown.

22. Remove and leave to cool.