Loch Fyne in Milsom Street, Bath, has a lively atmosphere and friendly service

I AM not a great fish lover, except maybe when it is coated in batter and sitting alongside a mountain of chips.

But my wife Helen is and so, as it was her 40th birthday, I agreed to break the habit of a lifetime and set foot in a fish restaurant.

Loch Fyne nestles in the heart of lively Milsom Street and consequently there is a buzz inside and out on a Saturday night.

First impressions count wherever you eat and the friendly welcome as we waited for a table made us feel at home, even if the noisy table of over-excited children right by the door did not.

Inside the restaurant is all pine tables, blackboards and tiled floors, which added to the informal atmosphere.

We were joined by my daughter Amy and her boyfriend Craig.

To start with Amy chose a rich crab and mussel soup (£6) while Craig and my wife ordered squid in a breadcrumb coating (£7) that was alive with chillis.

I played safe and opted for moules mariniere (£6). I had what seemed like a wheelie bin of mussels that elicited a fragrant steam and swum in a light white wine and cream sauce.

For main course I played even safer and order a succulent sirloin steak (£17) - just to annoy the fish-lovers.

My wife chose a a dish from the specials board, a tenderly-cooked trout fillet with a zingy citrus sauce and finished with fennel (£12). The sauce perfectly complemented the delicate fish.

Amy ordered the Loch Fyne Ashet, a platter of three pieces of the restaurant's melt-in-the-mouth salmon smoked and chargrilled three different ways (£12).

Craig opted for Braden Rost, a chunky salmon fillet smothered in an aromatic whisky, shellfish and mushroom sauce (£13).

All of the fish was clean, fresh and tasty - but I still preferred the steak.

With a bottle of wine and several beers the bill came to £145, which makes it a pricey night out but perfect for a special occasion.

Gary Lawrence

3:30pm Wednesday 7th May 2008

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