THE old English idiom “don’t judge a book by its cover” is quite apt to encapsulate the essence of Dean’s Diner, in St Stephens Place, Trowbridge.

The slick and brash décor was everything a 50s American diner should be on the face of it. I see a classy duke box and red and white leather seating. I hear the Beach Boys. I felt like I was on the set of the film Grease.

The proverbial leather bound casing of this authentic American diner promises an exciting evening ahead – alas this didn’t last long.

One vanilla milkshake with a drizzle of caramel whets the appetite nicely. My company for the evening goes down the buffet route with free refills of coke.

I select a New York burger and my comrade a New York combo hotdog with a starter of chicken wings.

The friendly and attentive staff can’t hide the decline that is coming however.

The cheese on my burger is barely cooked – luckily the meat was to a good standard.

My friend is perplexed as both his starter and main course arrive at the same time. What’s more, the supposed salad that comes with the meal comprises two small lettuce leaves – hardly a salad.

I notice the place is less than a quarter full. Then, unexpectedly, the classic tunes are gone to be replaced by the boy band Blue and then non-stop chart stuff.

Finally I order cheesecake. The presentation is well done. I want to say it was delicious. I want to say I would rush back for another, but I can’t. The texture is powdery, dry and not at all moist. My friend, a veteran waiter, tells me it has been clearly frozen. I fail to finish it and that pains me.

Four courses and drinks for £28.30 is a good deal but it was far from a home-run. First impressions can be misleading. Style is nice but more substance is needed.

RICHARD MILLS