This pub/restaurant was never renowned for its meals before – we used to go there to watch England play because it had a large bar and a widescreen TV – but food is definitely the focus of this revamped venue, which reopened under new ownership last year.

Inside it couldn’t be more different: cool blue walls, velvet chairs, distressed leather sofas and pale wood flooring. There’s a good selection: breakfast from 10am-midday, a choice of ‘light things’, ‘substantial things’, cakes and scones and even full afternoon teas, with a champagne option.

We ordered a glass of sauvignon and a sparkling water. The sparkling became soda (apparently there was a problem with the water pump), roast parsnip soup and the chicken liver parfait.

The soup was smooth and creamy with a generous drizzle of oil. The tasty chicken liver parfait came with a small side salad, and a brown roll. As usual the parfait to bread ratio wasn’t quite right, but I probably just need to spread it thicker.

Gripes? The white focaccia with the soup was a little dry and I’d have preferred toast with the parfait, as on the menu.

Two good coffees brought the bill to a very reasonable £16.95.