The Barbury Inn, Broad Hinton A361 between Wroughton and Devizes, SN4 9PF 01793 731510 www.thebarburyinn.co.uk SAM MORSHEAD gives an old neighbour another chance... and is pleased he did PERHAPS it is true, everyone does deserve a second chance.

I lived next to the Barbury Inn at Broad Hinton for 15 years as it meandered from wretched owner to wretched owner, serving up substandard food on an alarmingly regular basis.

Imagine my surprise, then, having moved out of the village for less than 12 months, when I discovered that upon my departure the Barbury has reinvented itself. And how.

Formerly known as the Bell Inn, this rural gastro pub’s location doesn’t immediately lend itself to roaring trade, situated as it is on the A4361 between Wroughton and Devizes and outside the heart of Broad Hinton itself.

Therefore it relies on reputation, a commodity it brazenly sought to destroy under its many previous owners.

Now, however, it’s been tarted up and boasts a warm interior, lovingly decorated to create a homely feel. Customers are greeted with a smile where before there was a grimace and the service is efficient if not excellent.

But really it’s all about the food, and the Barbury doesn’t let itself down.

My partner and I popped in on a relatively busy Friday night, with the small restaurant at around 60 per cent capacity. A tasty and diverse real ale selection made an immediate impression, as did the barman’s willingness to share his opinions on the beers on offer.

The Barbury’s menu has variety, though perhaps not to the extent a vegetarian would be truly satisfied, and quite rightly stresses the fact they source fresh ingredients where possible and make their own bread and butter. In time they aim to smoke their own salmon too.

Our starters arrived in good time but, while my chicken, bacon and sweetcorn terrine came with a tangy honey and mustard sauce, the bulk of the dish was dry and a tad bland.

Luckily, my partner had ordered the salmon bruschetta – a devilishly fruity dish, which somehow blended all the flavours of expertly cut, cured fish, fresh fruit and veg and out-of-the-oven bread to perfection.

The mains were equally as enjoyable. My lamb was succulent, juicy and tender and accompanied by well-seasoned potatoes. My partner was dished up a pork and bean combination that made conversation impossible for a good five minutes.

Both plates were presented with a touch of class by head chef Roger Hawkshaw and more than made up for the time it took for our wine to reach the table - we’d already munched through our starters when it arrived. The dessert menu was wholesome and, while I opted for a mountain of local cheeses, quince jelly and curiously brilliant frozen grapes, my partner was all over a giant cheesecake concoction which defeated her after a dozen mouthfuls.

Nevertheless, the experience left a very pleasant taste in our mouths. Maybe they were just waiting for me to move out.